Here is Balenciaga. Demna is dreadful as always. I wish he had done this all under his own label. Still would've been successful without subjecting a prestige fashion house to it. Some rumors that he will depart soon. He's was definitely a "phase" for Balenciaga. I don't think he ultimately added anything of substance to the house.
FASHION: 2025 couture
- Thread starter Jark
- Start date
McQueen was destined to be a disappointment. It's a fashion house that was always rooted in Lee himself from the very beginning. It was never about the clientele or the branding. It was always a personal creative vehicle for his individual vision, which is why even Burton's work seemed like a shadow despite her being technically brilliant.
My guess is McQueen will have the same fate as most prestige houses. They'll hire a revolving door of decent designers who are just capable enough to regurgitate the brand's most profitable signature features season after season to keep the customer hooked; but not capable enough to stray too far or be too individual.
McQueen is an investor's wet dream right now. Its legacy has ripened. People will buy anything with the name on it.
My guess is McQueen will have the same fate as most prestige houses. They'll hire a revolving door of decent designers who are just capable enough to regurgitate the brand's most profitable signature features season after season to keep the customer hooked; but not capable enough to stray too far or be too individual.
McQueen is an investor's wet dream right now. Its legacy has ripened. People will buy anything with the name on it.
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I don't know if we'll know for sure until we see what their new designer can (and can't) do. Unless you were referring to something else?
I just hear the design studio is a mess, he’s vastly under qualified, they purged a lot of the experienced team, then more left. His first collection, I’ve never seen something more universally panned, his most senior position before this was at Uniqlo, the whole decision to hire him remains baffling.
Raids Find Luxury Handbags Being Made by Exploited Workers in Italy
Dior paid a supplier €53 apiece, roughly $57, to assemble a handbag that it sells in stores for €2,600, or about $2,780, according to documents examined as part of the probe. Armani bags, meanwhile, were sold to a supplier for €93, then resold to Armani for €250, and ultimately priced at around €1,800 in stores, the probe found. The cost prices don’t include leather or other raw materials. The companies separately cover the costs of design, distribution and marketing.
Full text here:
Dior paid a supplier €53 apiece, roughly $57, to assemble a handbag that it sells in stores for €2,600, or about $2,780, according to documents examined as part of the probe. Armani bags, meanwhile, were sold to a supplier for €93, then resold to Armani for €250, and ultimately priced at around €1,800 in stores, the probe found. The cost prices don’t include leather or other raw materials. The companies separately cover the costs of design, distribution and marketing.
Full text here:
Eddie
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- Joined
- Feb 12, 2004
- Messages
- 25,805
She always was my favourite supermodel. Still looks amazing!
Cavalli is also excellent. Makes great use of the codes of the brand for a nice commemorative collection. There's a very cool tribute to the founder at the end (he passed in April) with the signature (and tacky) dresses and iconic models.
Dolce & Gabbana did a very Madonna-esque collection. It's very basic, but I appreciate that they're still willing to put on a show and give us the fAnTaSy. Unlike other Italian heritage houses like Versace which was so dreadful I can't even bring myself to post it.
Suedehead
SAW YOUR FACE AND MINE
Crocs X McQueen ladies!!!
houseofheat.co
There's a New Lightning McQueen x Crocs Classic Clog Coming Soon
Following the runaway success of their 2021 collaboration, Lightning McQueen and Crocs are set to reunite for a fresh take on the Classic Clog, arriving […]
houseofheat.co
Suedehead
SAW YOUR FACE AND MINE
So Haute Couture week has been hit and miss so far, but the highlight has been Schiaparelli with some of the best work I've ever seen. It's the kind of luxury everybody 'gets'.
No video yet, but the images do it justice regardless. It's just breathtaking craftsmanship.
www.schiaparelli.com
No video yet, but the images do it justice regardless. It's just breathtaking craftsmanship.
Maison Schiaparelli - Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2025
Schiaparelli - Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2025
www.schiaparelli.com
Is that Gothy Kendoll?Love Helena. What a FACE. One of Gianni Versace's favorites
Jark
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- Joined
- Oct 27, 2007
- Messages
- 53,637
elegant, timeless, stunning craftsmanship, gorgeous silhouettes, beautiful palette, UGH! it's a smash. I've come around to Schiaparelli.So Haute Couture week has been hit and miss so far, but the highlight has been Schiaparelli with some of the best work I've ever seen. It's the kind of luxury everybody 'gets'.
No video yet, but the images do it justice regardless. It's just breathtaking craftsmanship.
Maison Schiaparelli - Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2025
Schiaparelli - Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2025
The industry has been all over her lately. Landed lots of magazine covers and Tom Ford Beauty campaign.
F/W 25/26 was alright, but lacking any real standouts. Which sucks because I look forward more to F/W seasons than S/S. But the industry is a snoozefest these days in general anyways so whatever.
Anyways, here's my list of the highlights:
Antonio Marras
It's nice to see a designer whose collections are still actually about the CLOTHES and not just a blank excuse for the accessories and PR. The tailoring is just so strong and every look has a uniqueness that you can't find at High St boutiques - which is a real problem for most designers (especially in NY and London). It was REALLY hard only picking 3 looks because the whole show is just stunning. One of the few designers left not on autopilot. (Random tidbit: this is the guy who refused to work with Lady Gaga back in 09/10 because he thought she was beneath him).
Max Mara
I've always loved this brand, but in the last decade especially it's emerged as THE most reliable fashion house in Milan. Last season was superb. This season is a little subdued but the fabrics are so plush and just drip with quality. Ian Griffiths has really given MM the star treatment, but still retaining that maturity that the brand stands for. I also love that they chose Kathy Hilton as an official brand ambassador.
Fendi
Wow. Easily in the Top 3 from the WHOLE season. Watching the video of the show is an absolute must because it's even better in motion. It's back-to-back Italian glamor and luxury from start to finish. The way different materials and fabrics have been spliced together to create strange textures that are still somehow classic is where this collection shines. Also, the casting was quite superb.
Alaia
A lot of people hated this because it's just so self-indulgent and ostentatious. But imo it's absolutely necessary to the industry. Much like at Schiaparelli, Peter Mullier creates the kind of luxury everybody 'gets'. It's the stereotypical image of 'high fashion' that everybody associates with the industry. This kind of flagrant and obscene display that instantly reminds you that obscene glamor still exists and they you're just too POOR AND UNCULTURED to 'understand it'.
Tom Ford
This was Haider Ackerman's first collection at TF and although he's a FANTASTIC designer in his own right, this collection got very mixed reviews. Some enjoyed the kind of sinister glamor he brings to the brand, while others said it was just too sterile and sexless. I'm inclined to go with the first simply just because the QUALITY is off the charts. It's got all the TF codes and done in a very masterful way. Yes, it lacks that Tom Ford vulgarity, but there's no denying that it has the Tom Ford DNA.
Chloe
I am NOT traditionally a fan of this brand. I find it too...young? But this season it was undoubtedly one of Paris' highlights. Feminine, flirty, charming, and very French. Admittedly, it's really the accessories that really complete this collection, but in the case of Chloe it's more part of the brand's DNA more so than it is just the typical 'cash grab'. The bags will be flying off the shelves I'm sure.
And lastly.....Givenchy.
There was a LOT of anticipation leading up to this collection. After leaving McQueen, Sarah Burton (Lee McQueen's right hand woman and effectively his protege) took the job at Givenchy, making it her first indepedent gig. She's not particularly popular either. She doesn't have any of Lee's gifts for storytelling, but she DOES have the technique. And her debut at Givenchy basically falls in line with this. Technically brilliant but creatively mediocre. I personally don't need a STORY to love a collection. I find Burton's craftsmanship and tailoring perfectly worthy of praise. She still manages to experiment with cut and silhouette, albeit in a very stiff kinda way.
Anyways, here's my list of the highlights:
Antonio Marras
It's nice to see a designer whose collections are still actually about the CLOTHES and not just a blank excuse for the accessories and PR. The tailoring is just so strong and every look has a uniqueness that you can't find at High St boutiques - which is a real problem for most designers (especially in NY and London). It was REALLY hard only picking 3 looks because the whole show is just stunning. One of the few designers left not on autopilot. (Random tidbit: this is the guy who refused to work with Lady Gaga back in 09/10 because he thought she was beneath him).
Max Mara
I've always loved this brand, but in the last decade especially it's emerged as THE most reliable fashion house in Milan. Last season was superb. This season is a little subdued but the fabrics are so plush and just drip with quality. Ian Griffiths has really given MM the star treatment, but still retaining that maturity that the brand stands for. I also love that they chose Kathy Hilton as an official brand ambassador.
Fendi
Wow. Easily in the Top 3 from the WHOLE season. Watching the video of the show is an absolute must because it's even better in motion. It's back-to-back Italian glamor and luxury from start to finish. The way different materials and fabrics have been spliced together to create strange textures that are still somehow classic is where this collection shines. Also, the casting was quite superb.
Alaia
A lot of people hated this because it's just so self-indulgent and ostentatious. But imo it's absolutely necessary to the industry. Much like at Schiaparelli, Peter Mullier creates the kind of luxury everybody 'gets'. It's the stereotypical image of 'high fashion' that everybody associates with the industry. This kind of flagrant and obscene display that instantly reminds you that obscene glamor still exists and they you're just too POOR AND UNCULTURED to 'understand it'.
Tom Ford
This was Haider Ackerman's first collection at TF and although he's a FANTASTIC designer in his own right, this collection got very mixed reviews. Some enjoyed the kind of sinister glamor he brings to the brand, while others said it was just too sterile and sexless. I'm inclined to go with the first simply just because the QUALITY is off the charts. It's got all the TF codes and done in a very masterful way. Yes, it lacks that Tom Ford vulgarity, but there's no denying that it has the Tom Ford DNA.
Chloe
I am NOT traditionally a fan of this brand. I find it too...young? But this season it was undoubtedly one of Paris' highlights. Feminine, flirty, charming, and very French. Admittedly, it's really the accessories that really complete this collection, but in the case of Chloe it's more part of the brand's DNA more so than it is just the typical 'cash grab'. The bags will be flying off the shelves I'm sure.
And lastly.....Givenchy.
There was a LOT of anticipation leading up to this collection. After leaving McQueen, Sarah Burton (Lee McQueen's right hand woman and effectively his protege) took the job at Givenchy, making it her first indepedent gig. She's not particularly popular either. She doesn't have any of Lee's gifts for storytelling, but she DOES have the technique. And her debut at Givenchy basically falls in line with this. Technically brilliant but creatively mediocre. I personally don't need a STORY to love a collection. I find Burton's craftsmanship and tailoring perfectly worthy of praise. She still manages to experiment with cut and silhouette, albeit in a very stiff kinda way.